Hidden InfrastructurePipes, Valves & Smart Systems
The plumbing you can't see matters most. My professional guide to pipework, valves, waste systems, pressure management, insulation, and smart leak detection.
Best Plumbing Kit Series
Everyone notices a beautiful tap or a powerful shower. Nobody thinks about the 50 metres of pipework, 20-odd valves, and the drainage system that makes it all work. Until something goes wrong.
This is the stuff I spend most of my time working on. First fixes on new builds, ripping out corroded pipework in Victorian cottages around Marlborough, re-plumbing extensions in Andover, and sorting out the mess left when someone who wasn't a plumber had a go at running their own pipes.
In this guide - Part 3 of my Best Plumbing Kit series - I'm covering everything behind the walls and under the floors. The infrastructure that determines whether your plumbing works reliably for decades or gives you grief every few years. I'll tell you exactly what I use, what I avoid, and what it costs.
1. Pipework Systems
The big debate: copper vs push-fit
This is the conversation I have with every customer doing a renovation or extension. "Should we go copper or plastic?" The honest answer is: both. They each have their place, and a good plumber uses both on the same job.
My rule of thumb: copper behind walls (permanent runs), push-fit under floors and in accessible spaces. That way you get the longevity of copper where you can't easily access it, and the speed and flexibility of push-fit where you might need to make changes later.
Copper Pipe + Yorkshire Fittings
The traditional choice | 50-70+ year lifespanCopper is still the gold standard for permanent pipework. It's been used in UK plumbing since the 1950s, and there are copper installations from the 1960s still going strong. The material itself is antimicrobial, which is why it's preferred for drinking water supply.
Yorkshire solder ring fittings are what I use for all copper joints. They're pre-loaded with solder - you flux the joint, push the fitting on, apply heat, and the solder melts and flows into the joint automatically. Clean, consistent, and reliable every time. They cost £1-£3 per fitting depending on size.
Hampshire note: Our hard chalk water actually benefits copper pipes - it builds a thin limescale layer inside that protects against corrosion. Copper lasts even longer here than in soft water areas.
Hep2O Push-Fit (by Wavin)
My go-to for most domestic work | ~£2-£5 per fittingHep2O is my preferred push-fit system and has been for years. It uses flexible polybutylene pipe with demountable fittings - meaning you can take a joint apart and reuse the fitting if you need to make changes. That's a massive advantage over other push-fit systems.
The pipe itself is flexible enough to bend around obstacles without elbow fittings, which means fewer joints and fewer potential leak points. For under-floor runs and retrofits where you need to snake pipe through existing structures, nothing beats it.
JG Speedfit
Widely available alternative | ~£2-£5 per fittingJG Speedfit is the other major push-fit system you'll encounter. It's very similar to Hep2O and uses the same polybutylene pipe (they're interchangeable). The main difference is the grab ring design - Speedfit fittings aren't demountable without a special tool, whereas Hep2O fittings can be hand-released.
Both are excellent systems. I prefer Hep2O for the demountable design - it's saved me hours over the years when I've needed to rework a joint or extend a run. But if a customer already has Speedfit throughout, I'll match what's there rather than mixing systems.
Pipework Comparison
| Feature | Copper + Yorkshire | Hep2O | JG Speedfit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lifespan | 50-70+ years | 25-50 years | 25-50 years |
| Cost per metre | £4-£8 + labour | £1-£3 | £1-£3 |
| Fitting cost | £1-£3 each | £2-£5 each | £2-£5 each |
| Installation speed | Slow (soldering) | Fast (push-fit) | Fast (push-fit) |
| Demountable | No | Yes | No (tool needed) |
| DIY friendly | No | Yes | Yes |
| Best for | Behind walls, permanent | Under floors, retrofits | General domestic |
2. Valves
The unsung heroes of your plumbing
Valves are probably the least exciting part of plumbing to most people, but they're the components I'm most particular about. A cheap valve that seizes up or fails to shut off properly can turn a minor repair into a major emergency. I've lost count of the emergency calls I've attended where the customer couldn't isolate their water supply because their valves had seized.
Ball Valves - Pegler Brass
~£8-£20 each | The trade standardFull-bore brass ball valves with quarter-turn operation. The Pegler PB300 is what I fit on every job. Full bore means no restriction to flow - the hole through the ball is the same diameter as the pipe, so you get maximum water flow. Quarter-turn means open or closed with a 90-degree handle movement - no winding, no ambiguity.
Pegler have been making valves in the UK since 1896. Their brass ball valves are the trade standard for good reason - they last decades and they work every time you need them. I won't fit anything else as a main isolation valve.
Isolation Valves
~£3-£8 each | Under every fixtureThese small chrome-plated brass valves go under every tap, every toilet cistern, every appliance connection. They let you isolate individual fixtures without shutting off the whole house. Turned with a flat-head screwdriver - slot in line with pipe means open, slot across means closed.
Will's rule: "ALWAYS fit isolation valves everywhere. Your future self - or your plumber - will thank you. I've spent more time turning water off at the mains and draining whole systems just because someone saved £3 by not fitting an isolation valve 20 years ago. It's the best few quid you'll ever spend on plumbing."
Check Valves / Non-Return Valves
~£8-£15 each | Required by regulationsThese one-way valves prevent backflow contamination - stopping dirty water from flowing backwards into your clean supply. They're required by Water Regulations in many installations, including outside taps, mixer showers where hot and cold supplies meet, and anywhere there's a risk of cross-contamination. Not optional - they're a legal requirement in specific situations.
Gate Valves - Avoid These
"Avoid gate valves. They seize up, they weep, they're outdated. I replace them with ball valves on almost every job I do in older properties around Hungerford and Marlborough. A gate valve has a wedge-shaped gate that lifts and lowers - and that gate corrodes, the spindle packing wears, and within 10-15 years you've got a valve that neither opens fully nor closes properly. Use ball valves instead - always."
3. Waste & Drainage
Getting the water out as reliably as you get it in
FloPlast
~£3-£15 per fitting | Will's pick for drainageFloPlast is the UK's biggest plastic plumbing manufacturer and my go-to for all above-ground drainage. They make solvent weld and push-fit ranges covering soil pipe, waste pipe, and rainwater systems. Everything from the 32mm basin waste to the 110mm soil stack.
Polypipe
~£3-£15 per fitting | Premium alternativePolypipe is the premium alternative to FloPlast. Their push-fit waste system is particularly good - no solvent cement needed, which means faster installation and the ability to take joints apart if you need to rework something. Slightly more expensive but the push-fit system saves time on bigger jobs.
Key Waste Pipe Sizes (UK Standard)
Pro tip: Waste pipe gradient matters as much as size. Aim for 10-40mm fall per metre. Too steep and the water runs away from the solids, leaving them stranded. Too shallow and nothing drains properly. I see both mistakes regularly in DIY work.
4. Water Pressure Management
Too much pressure causes as many problems as too little
Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV)
~£30-£60 + installation | Essential above 3 barIf your mains water pressure is above 3 bar, you need a PRV. High pressure stresses every joint, every valve, every flexible hose in your house. It wears out tap washers faster, makes pipes hammer and bang, and causes toilet fill valves to fail prematurely. I test mains pressure on every job - you'd be surprised how many properties in Andover and the Pewsey Vale are running at 4-5 bar or more.
A PRV fits on your incoming mains pipe and reduces the pressure to a safe, consistent level. Standard on most new builds, but many older properties don't have one. Signs you need a PRV: noisy pipes, dripping overflow pipes, tap washers wearing out quickly, and toilet fill valves that won't shut off properly.
Expansion Vessels
~£30-£80 | Required with unvented cylindersWhen water heats up, it expands. In a sealed (unvented) system, that expansion has to go somewhere - and that's the expansion vessel. It contains a rubber diaphragm with air on one side and water on the other. As the water expands, it pushes into the vessel and compresses the air, absorbing the expansion safely.
Will's maintenance tip: "Check your expansion vessel annually. They lose air charge over time, and a flat expansion vessel means your pressure relief valve is doing all the work - which wears it out and wastes water. I can re-charge an expansion vessel in 10 minutes during a service visit."
Pressure Relief Valves
Safety devices | Not optionalThese are the last line of defence on unvented hot water cylinders and sealed heating systems. If pressure exceeds the safe limit (usually 6 bar on unvented cylinders, 3 bar on heating), the relief valve opens and dumps water safely via a tundish to an external drain. If yours is dripping constantly, it's not faulty - it's telling you something else in the system needs attention (usually the expansion vessel). Never, ever cap off or remove a pressure relief valve. They're required by Building Regulations and exist to prevent catastrophic failure.
5. Pipe Insulation
Cheap insurance against expensive disasters
Pipe insulation is the least glamorous part of plumbing, but here in Hampshire and Wiltshire, it's one of the most important. Every winter I get emergency calls from homeowners with burst pipes in their loft or under their ground floor - and almost every time, the pipes weren't insulated. A burst pipe in a loft space can dump hundreds of litres of water through your ceilings before anyone notices.
The fix is Armaflex or equivalent closed-cell foam insulation. It's not expensive - £1-£3 per metre - and it takes minutes to fit. I insulate every pipe I install as standard, because the cost of not insulating (a burst pipe repair, ceiling damage, ruined carpets and furniture) makes the insulation look like the best investment in plumbing.
Hot Pipe Insulation
Cold Pipe Insulation
Hampshire reality check: "With our hard frosts - we regularly hit -5°C or below in Great Bedwyn and across the Kennet Valley - lagging pipes in loft spaces and under suspended floors isn't optional. It's essential. I've seen pipes burst in lofts after just one night of hard frost when the insulation had been pulled back to run a cable. Cost of insulation: £30-£50 for a typical loft. Cost of a burst pipe repair and ceiling damage: £2,000-£5,000+."
6. Smart Leak Detection
Technology that could save you thousands
This is one area where technology has genuinely improved plumbing in recent years. A slow leak under a kitchen unit or behind a bath panel can cause thousands of pounds of damage before you even notice it. Smart leak detection gives you early warning - or in the case of inline shut-off systems, automatically stops the water before serious damage occurs.
Grohe Sense
~£200-£300 | Floor sensor with app alertsThe Grohe Sense is a small disc that sits on the floor in vulnerable areas - under sinks, next to washing machines, in utility rooms. It has moisture sensors on its base that detect water and immediately send an alert to your phone via WiFi. It also monitors temperature and humidity, warning you about freezing conditions before pipes burst.
Grohe Sense Guard
~£400-£600 installed | The full protection systemThis is the serious option. The Sense Guard installs inline on your mains water pipe and monitors your entire water system. It tracks water usage patterns, detects micro-leaks by monitoring pressure drops, and can automatically shut off the water supply if it detects something wrong. It also does a nightly pressure test while everyone's asleep, checking for leaks you might not notice during the day.
It's expensive, yes. But consider that the average insurance claim for water damage in the UK is over £7,000, and many insurers are now offering premium discounts for properties with smart leak detection. For holiday homes, rental properties, or anyone who travels frequently, it's a no-brainer.
Budget Option: Simple Water Alarms
~£10-£20 | Better than nothingIf smart systems are out of budget, a simple battery-powered water alarm is still worth fitting. No app, no WiFi - just a piercing alarm when water touches the sensors. Put one under every sink, next to the washing machine, and near the dishwasher. At £10-£20 each, you could protect your whole house for under £100.
Will's honest view: "Better than nothing - and that's exactly what most people have: nothing. Even a £10 alarm under your kitchen sink could alert you to a slow leak from a flexible hose before it ruins your floor. I recommend them to every customer, especially for properties in the Andover and Hungerford areas where I see a lot of flexible hose failures on older installations."
7. Central Heating Infrastructure
Keeping the system clean and air-free
Adey MagnaClean Professional2
~£100-£200 installed | The trade standardA magnetic filter catches iron oxide sludge (that black magnetite muck) from your heating circuit before it reaches your boiler. The Adey MagnaClean Professional2 is the trade standard - I won't install a boiler without one, and most boiler manufacturers now require a magnetic filter to validate their warranty.
The filter sits on the return pipe to the boiler. Water flows through it, the powerful neodymium magnet catches the magnetic particles, and clean water continues to the boiler. Cleaning it annually takes about 5 minutes - unscrew the cap, pull out the magnet, wipe the sludge off, put it back. Simple but essential.
Automatic Air Vents
~£5-£15 each | Fit at highest pointsTrapped air in heating systems causes cold spots on radiators, gurgling noises, and reduced efficiency. Automatic air vents (AAVs) are small valves fitted at the highest points in your heating circuit that continuously vent any trapped air without you having to do anything.
Much better than relying on manual radiator bleeding, which most people forget to do. I fit AAVs on every new installation and add them during re-pipes or upgrades. They're cheap, effective, and one of those small details that separate a proper installation from a quick-and-dirty job.
Central Heating Inhibitor
~£10-£20 per dose | Annual top-upInhibitor is a chemical additive that goes into your heating water to prevent corrosion and scale buildup. Sentinel X100 or Fernox F1 are the two brands I use - both are excellent. Without inhibitor, the inside of your radiators and pipes corrode, creating the sludge that your MagnaClean catches. Prevention is always better than cure. I check inhibitor levels on every service visit and top up if needed. Some boiler warranties are void if inhibitor isn't maintained at the correct concentration.
Cost Summary by Property Size
Ballpark figures for complete infrastructure - materials and labour
These are approximate costs for a complete re-plumb of each system. Most people won't need everything at once - you're more likely to upgrade systems as part of a renovation or when replacing individual components. All prices include materials and labour for professional installation.
Flat / 1-2 Bed Apartment
| System | Recommended | Budget |
|---|---|---|
| Pipework | Hep2O push-fit throughout | £300-£600 |
| Valves | Pegler ball valves + isolation | £100-£200 |
| Waste | FloPlast push-fit | £150-£300 |
| Insulation | Armaflex closed-cell foam | £50-£100 |
| Total | £600-£1,200 |
3-Bed Semi / Detached House
| System | Recommended | Budget |
|---|---|---|
| Pipework | Copper risers + Hep2O under floors | £600-£1,200 |
| Valves | Pegler ball + isolation + PRV | £200-£400 |
| Waste & Drainage | FloPlast solvent weld + push-fit | £300-£600 |
| Insulation | Full Armaflex coverage | £100-£250 |
| Heating Components | MagnaClean + AAVs + inhibitor | £200-£400 |
| Leak Detection | 3x simple water alarms | £30-£60 |
| Total | £1,500-£3,500 |
5+ Bed / Large Detached Property
| System | Recommended | Budget |
|---|---|---|
| Pipework | Copper mains + Hep2O distribution | £1,200-£2,500 |
| Valves | Pegler ball + isolation + PRV + zone | £400-£800 |
| Waste & Drainage | Full FloPlast/Polypipe system | £500-£1,200 |
| Insulation | Comprehensive Armaflex | £200-£500 |
| Heating Components | MagnaClean + AAVs + inhibitor + expansion | £300-£600 |
| Leak Detection | Grohe Sense Guard + 2x Sense sensors | £600-£1,000 |
| Total | £3,000-£7,000+ |
Note: These are ballpark figures for complete infrastructure replacement. Most jobs are partial - upgrading one system at a time as part of a bathroom renovation, extension, or when replacing failing components. I'm always happy to give a specific quote for your property. Every house in the Andover, Marlborough, and Hungerford areas is different, and your plumbing infrastructure needs to be assessed on site.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about plumbing infrastructure
Should I replace old copper pipes?
Not necessarily. Copper pipes can last 50-70+ years and often outlive the house. If your copper pipes aren't leaking, showing green corrosion at joints, or causing water discolouration, leave them alone. The exception is if you're doing a major renovation anyway - that's a good time to upgrade accessible sections. In Hampshire, our hard water actually builds a protective limescale layer inside copper pipes, which can extend their lifespan.
How long does push-fit plumbing last?
Hep2O and JG Speedfit push-fit systems have a projected lifespan of 25-50 years when installed correctly. The O-ring seals are the weakest point, but modern formulations are far more durable than early versions. The key is correct insertion depth - the pipe must be fully home in the fitting. I've been using Hep2O for over 15 years and haven't had a failure on any installation where it was fitted properly.
Do I need a magnetic filter on my heating?
Yes, absolutely. An Adey MagnaClean or similar magnetic filter is one of the best investments you can make for your heating system. It catches magnetic sludge (iron oxide) before it damages your boiler heat exchanger, which can cost over £500 to replace. Most boiler manufacturers now require a magnetic filter to validate their warranty. Installation costs around £150-£200 and the filter lasts 10-15+ years.
What's a PRV and do I need one?
A PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) reduces incoming mains water pressure to a safe level, typically 3 bar. If your mains pressure is above 3 bar, you should have one fitted. Signs of high pressure include noisy pipes, dripping overflow pipes, and premature failure of tap washers and toilet fill valves. In parts of Andover and Marlborough, mains pressure can be quite high - especially properties at the bottom of hills. A PRV costs around £30-£60 for the valve plus installation.
How do smart leak detectors work?
Smart leak detectors like the Grohe Sense sit on the floor in vulnerable areas (under sinks, near appliances, in utility rooms). They have moisture sensors on the base that detect water and send an alert to your phone via WiFi. The Grohe Sense Guard goes further - it's installed inline on your mains water supply and can automatically shut off the water if it detects unusual flow patterns or a sudden pressure drop indicating a burst pipe.
Is pipe insulation really necessary?
In Hampshire, absolutely. Our winters regularly drop below freezing, and pipes in loft spaces, under suspended floors, and in unheated garages are all at risk of freezing and bursting. A burst pipe can cause tens of thousands of pounds in flood damage. Pipe insulation costs £1-£3 per metre - cheap insurance. Hot pipe insulation also saves energy by reducing heat loss, paying for itself within months.
Can push-fit fittings fail?
They can, but it's almost always due to incorrect installation rather than a product defect. The most common causes are: pipe not inserted to full depth, pipe not cut squarely, pipe not deburred (sharp edges cutting the O-ring), or using the wrong pipe with the wrong fitting. When installed correctly with the pipe insert and pushed fully home, push-fit fittings are extremely reliable. I always use pipe inserts and check insertion depth on every fitting.
What size waste pipe do I need?
UK standard sizes are: 32mm for basins and bidets, 40mm for baths, showers, kitchen sinks, and washing machines, and 110mm for soil pipe (toilets). Using the wrong size will cause slow drainage or even blockages. The gradient matters too - waste pipes should fall at 10-40mm per metre. Too steep and the water runs away from the solids; too shallow and nothing drains properly.
Will's Bottom Line
The infrastructure philosophy I apply to every job
Hidden infrastructure isn't exciting, but it's what separates a plumbing system that works for decades from one that gives you grief every few years. The customers who invest in proper pipework, good valves, adequate insulation, and quality drainage don't call me back with problems - they call me when they want their next bathroom done.
If I had to pick three things that make the biggest difference, they'd be: isolation valves everywhere (so any repair is quick and contained), proper pipe insulation (especially in our Hampshire winters), and a MagnaClean on your heating (to protect everything downstream).
None of these are glamorous. None of them will make your friends say "nice plumbing" when they visit. But they'll save you money, prevent emergencies, and make your plumber's life easier when you do need work done. And a happy plumber does better work - trust me on that one.
Need Your Infrastructure Assessed or Upgraded?
Whether it's a full re-plumb, a valve replacement, or advice on what your property needs, I'm happy to take a look and give you honest advice.
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